London to a Morocco yoga retreat by train: an epic slow adventure
The romance and adventure of slow travel at its best: taking the train to Morocco to join our New Year Atlas Mountain Yoga and Walking Retreat.
“People ask me: what do you do to while away the hours? Do you take a book? Well I do, but I never read it. I love looking out of the train window. You see so much.”
Often described as one of the world’s great overland adventures, the 2321 kilometre train journey from London to Marrakech is guaranteed to inspire wanderlust in adventurous travellers, slow travel enthusiasts and those seeking to dramatically lessen the journey’s carbon footprint. For Graham Turner travelling to join our 2024/25 Morocco Atlas Mountain New Year retreat this was his third UK to Morocco trip by train - and once again, he loved every moment. Here, Graham shares more.
Voyaging through France & Spain
This was not my first overland trip to Morocco. I had previously been to Agadir twice for surfing on Morocco’s famed coast. This time, I was heading into the Atlas Mountains for what turned out to be a wonderful New Year Yoga and Walking holiday.
A train trip to Morocco sounds daunting, but in fact, it is easy. Sure, flying is quicker. But taking the train is a brilliant experience. And - on the whole! - you don’t get delayed. 😊 My trains were all on time.
On this occasion my journey started in Britain’s most northerly town, Thurso, 700 miles north of London, just before Christmas. I took the sleeper to Euston, and spent a few days in the UK’s South East, before setting off again.
The first leg was a quick St Pancras to Paris hop on the Eurostar, arriving in the French capital at 10.30am on December 27. I had deliberately given myself plenty of time before the next stage, planning to walk from Gare Du Nord to Gare De Lyon, to connect with the Barcelona train.
France’s brilliant high speed trains never disappoint: almost always on time, comfortable, fast. We sped along to the South West city of Montpellier before meandering along the Mediterranean coast into Spain. Just seven hours after leaving Paris, I was ensconced in my next hotel close to the impressive Barcelona Sants, the same station that would be the departure point for the next leg.
If you think France has a good high speed train network, Spain’s is even better! The Spanish government made the wise decision to use Japanese high-speed trains, built in Spain under franchise. The Spaniards have high speed travel down to a fine art: hugely well organised and efficient, these could be the most comfortable trains in Europe.
Six hours after leaving Barca, I was in Antequera, a small town close to the enticing southern city of Malaga. I then changed to a stopping train that would take me through the mountains of Andalucia, down to the port of Algeciras. I have now taken this train six times. It’s a beautiful journey: wonderful scenery, and a glimpse into rural life.
As we trundled down towards the Straits, the rock of Gibraltar came majestically into view. A short walk from the station, I had settled into my second hotel for the trip, the rather grand, though inexpensive, Globales Reina Cristina. My evening meal was in a local café right opposite the port: ten euros for paella, dessert and a drink!
I was off early the following morning: a short walk to the ferry terminal. I have never booked the ferry in advance; there are so many going back and forth across the Straits. And there has always been lots of space for passengers. On one crossing, I was the only foot passenger! And the cost is just forty euros.
Arriving in Morocco
“The short ferry crossing from Europe to North Africa is brilliant. In one sweep, you can see the mountains of Southern Spain, North Africa and the Rock of Gibraltar... By far the most exciting ferry crossing I have done.”
The ferry crossing from Europe to north Africa is brilliant. In one sweep, you can see the mountains of Southern Spain, North Africa and the Rock of Gibraltar. And not to mention many ships passing through; by far the most exciting ferry crossing I have done.
Arriving in Tanger is an eye-opener and the first visible indication that Morocco is a fast-growing economy; the port is huge. Despite this, clearing customs and passport control is quick and easy and is followed by a beautiful 50-minute taxi ride along the coast to Tanger station. If you ask, your taxi driver will pull over so you can take photos of the spectacular coastline.
Tanger is a modern, vibrant city with a station to match. Then follows the highlight of the whole journey. Morocco’s high speed train whisks you down to Casablanca in two hours, hitting speeds of 319km, in supreme comfort. Every time, I have stood in the buffet car upstairs to marvel at the changing scenery.
From Casablanca, there is one final change for a train down to Marrakech. It is not as fast but there are plans for the high speed network to extend the length of the whole country.
Closing thoughts…
My train journey from St Pancras to Marrakech took a total of 57 hours. It’s definitely possible to shave off some time - or you could slow the trip right down, stopping off more frequently, or for longer. Spending a few days wandering around the beautiful Andalusian town of Ronda is one suggestion - or stopping off for chocolate con churros and an art gallery fix in Madrid; the possibilities are endless!
I will admit: you don’t save money going by train! Flying is cheap. However, planning ahead for the train adventure will reap rewards: one year I booked a EuroRail Pass ahead (a tip: sign up for alerts to let you know when booking is open) and did the return trip for £400, hotels excluded.
I love this wonderful journey and wouldn’t do it any other way. Take the train: you won’t regret it.
Taking it further:
Satvada retreats runs New Year yoga and walking escapes in the awe-inspiring setting of Morocco’s Atlas Mountains as well as three-night yoga escapes at a beautiful Riad in Marrakech.
Typical Moroccan scenes. Why not combine travelling to Morocco for a yoga retreat with exploring the country’s astonishing rural landscape?